Nestled in a quiet residential neighborhood of Kasuga City, Fukuoka, Kikuzushi was founded in 1988 as a community-focused local sushi shop. Since its succession in 2012 by the second-generation chef, Yusuke Seguchi, the restaurant has undergone a remarkable transformation. Today, it proudly holds a Michelin star and is renowned as one of Fukuoka’s foremost establishments, with reservations filled up to six months in advance. Seguchi trained extensively at a venerable sushi house in Hakata before serving as sous-chef at the five-star Hôtel Métropole Monte-Carlo in the Principality of Monaco. At the wedding of Prince Albert II, he stood alongside culinary legends Joël Robuchon and Alain Ducasse, presenting sushi—a rare and distinguished honor that underscores his exceptional career as a sushi artisan.
At the entrance hangs a framed work by the Zen monk Sengai, depicting Tenjin Crossing to Song China. This legend, born in Japan during the Muromachi period, tells of Sugawara no Michizane (845–903), who in a dream visited the Chinese Zen master Wuzhun Shifan (1177–1249). There he engaged in Zen practice, attained enlightenment in a single night, and returned to Japan carrying a branch of plum blossoms. “When the east wind blows, its fragrance will drift afar—from the sleeve of the plum’s master, a single branch.” Clad in the robe of Zen practice and holding a sprig of plum, his figure is celebrated in verse, the fragrance said to reach even distant Tang China. Situated at the foot of Dazaifu Tenmangū, Kikuzushi’s interior arrangements breathe new life into this ancient tale, resonating deeply with the region’s history, pride, and aesthetic sensibility.
Bathed in gentle light, the sukiya-style interior features a counter crafted from a single slab of ginkgo wood over a century old. Within this space drifts a clear, tranquil atmosphere, inviting guests to devote themselves wholly to the special moment of engaging with each meal.
Clad in a white coat, the act of combining rice and vinegar in a wooden tub unfolds with a serenity and beauty akin to a ritual. The movements of the hands and the fragrance of the vinegar naturally quicken the hearts of guests seated at the counter. This scene transcends the mere act of “tasting” sushi, allowing one to deeply feel the experience of witnessing the very moment sushi is born. The flower basket placed against the wall and the framed view beyond evoke a tranquil stillness, like a single painting.
The appetizers served at the outset draw forth the richness of the sea while gently reflecting the first signs of the season. Each dish quietly arranges the flow of the meal, guiding the heart toward the sushi to come. Centered on the rare and sought-after works of Ms. Mayumi Hamano, the vessels approach the essence of Edo-period originals, yet shine with a distinctive modern sensibility—radiant with dignity, carrying a subtle softness imbued with palpable tension. With every touch, with every downward glance, a dialogue between cuisine and vessel arises. The time before the sushi unfolds like a prologue, gently awakening both palate and aesthetic sensibility.
The sushi is received upon Ko-Sometsuke flat dishes, fired at the Jingdezhen kilns in China from the late Ming to the early Qing dynasty. The sight of ten distinguished Chinese wares aligned together is truly magnificent, their crisp cobalt-blue designs radiating a striking presence. At the center, the peony—celebrated as the “king of flowers”—blooms in full splendor, while the relief created through stamp-molding lends depth and dimension. Encircling the rim, the thunder pattern and shippō motif trace a graceful order. Throughout, the perfection of design and the meticulous craftsmanship are evident, enhancing the brilliance of the sushi and bringing a rare elegance to the table.
Sushi set upon a Ko-Sometsuke flat dish transcends the realm of taste, resonating with the eye and the heart. In the moment when vessel and sushi respond to one another, the aesthetic spirit of Kikuzushi arises, and a subtle aura spreads to fill the five senses.
It is a moment of delight when carefully selected seasonal ingredients are served. A piece generously adorned with delicately picked matsuba crab meat carries a profound richness within its subtle refinement, leaving an exceptional lingering aftertaste.
The bafun uni, when offered, feels as though one is handed the memory of the sea, its pure and pristine flavor spreading in rich abundance.
The Ko-Sometsuke chrysanthemum-patterned flat sake cup, brought by a fellow guest, was offered in thoughtful evocation of Kikuzushi. The Shino sake vessel by Kitaōji Rosanjin harmonized beautifully with the dignified interior setting. It was a serene moment of shared appreciation between Mr. Seguchi, a devoted admirer of the arts, and his guest. The anticipation was so profound that the guest confessed the scene had even appeared in their dreams, a reflection of how eagerly they awaited the day they could visit Kikuzushi.
Within the grounds of the restaurant stands Hakubun, a quiet space where apprentices devote themselves to their training. Its name carries the meaning of “deepening knowledge and attaining understanding,” embodying Mr. Seguchi’s sincere wish to contribute to the food culture of Hakata. Linking Kikuzushi and Hakubun is a lush garden, a luxurious setting that reflects the changing seasons.
Kikuzushi is the very embodiment of Mr. Seguchi’s character—an artistic creation crystallized from his humanity and aesthetic sensibility. Sincerity and warmth, a steadfast attitude toward ingredients, an unceasing spirit of inquiry, and delicate attentiveness to guests—all of these reside within each piece of sushi, leaving a profound aftertaste in the heart.
Next year, a Los Angeles branch will open, and Kikuzushi will spread its wings beyond Japan to the global stage. This new chapter promises an even broader horizon of sensibility and the enrichment of cultural exchange.
3-51-3 Kasuga Park, Kasuga City, Fukuoka Prefecture
Kikuzushi