On Saturday, May 27th, we had the honor of hosting the “Early Summer Gathering,” a large-format tea ceremony held at Dazaifu Tenmangū. The idea for this event first took shape during a casual conversation with Mr. Masaharu Inoue of Hōkōen, a longtime friend and colleague in the same field. While the vision had quietly taken root in my mind, it was only through the support of like-minded companions that it swiftly blossomed into reality. Through many thoughtful exchanges, the venue that came to mind above all was Dazaifu Tenmangū—a sacred place where the history and culture of the ancient Western Capital still breathe. Within its grounds stands the Bunshokan, an elegant structure originally built in 1901 as an imperial lodging. Normally closed to the public, we were granted the rare privilege of using this space thanks to the gracious generosity of Dazaifu Tenmangū. Surrounded by the quiet dignity of history, we were able to spend a day in early summer immersed in the spirit of tea. I offer my heartfelt gratitude for this deeply meaningful experience.
For this “Early Summer Gathering,” Mr. Taku Tokubuchi offered his wholehearted support from the very beginning. He is the proprietor of Yorozu, a refined tea and sake salon nestled in Akasaka, Chūō Ward, Fukuoka City. Known to connoisseurs as a hidden gem, Yorozu has been featured in publications such as Fujingaho, and its tranquil atmosphere draws many visitors seeking respite from the everyday. For the tea gathering, Mr. Tokubuchi recreated the essence of Yorozu within the grand hall, crafting a setting that echoed the cool elegance of early summer. He presented a single, masterful infusion of gyokuro, served in antique sometsuke porcelain and vintage Baccarat glassware. Further enriching the experience, hinoki bark shingles—salvaged during the restoration of the Important Cultural Property Shiga Shrine—were repurposed into tea coasters, subtly referencing the upcoming grand renovation of the main sanctuary in 2027. Throughout the event, seasonal and cultural motifs were woven with care and precision. The dignified clarity of the kōsen tea service quietly and powerfully bridged the flow toward the thick tea ceremony, passing the baton of culture from one moment to the next.
The thick tea (koicha) service was graciously conducted by Reverend Akiyoshi Yamanishi, head priest of Kōmyō-ji Temple. Our connection dates back to my father’s generation, and it has now been nearly twenty years since we first met. At times like a father, at times like an elder brother, he has been a constant and caring presence throughout both my personal and professional journey. For this koicha gathering, there was no one else I could imagine entrusting with the role. Despite the considerable demands of the request, he accepted without hesitation and made the journey from Kobe to Dazaifu on numerous occasions. From the waiting room to the main chamber, from the overall atmosphere to the finest details of the setting, he poured his heart into every moment. “To cherish each once-in-a-lifetime encounter with our guests who have taken time from their lives to be here”—this, I believe, is not only the essence of Reverend Yamanishi’s tea practice, but also a reflection of his way of being. Surrounded by trusted companions in tea and cherished friends in the world of utensils, the koicha room was imbued with a serene yet warmly intimate atmosphere—a gathering that will long remain in our hearts.
The koicha (thick tea) gathering began with a formal greeting, followed by a refined presentation: a confection of green plum by Ms. Fujimaru, served in a pine-themed sweets vessel, accompanied by bamboo—together evoking the auspicious trio of pine, bamboo, and plum (shōchikubai). Within the limited time, Reverend Akiyoshi Yamanishi gracefully unfolded the legend of Sugawara no Michizane as it has been passed down in Kobe. Though some guests appeared slightly tense at first, his gentle humor and warm storytelling soon put everyone at ease, and the room was filled with smiles throughout. Reverend Yamanishi’s tea gatherings are at once intellectually engaging and deeply approachable—spaces where the “playfulness of culture” quietly breathes. It is no wonder he is in high demand across the country; anyone who experiences his presence firsthand will understand why. The tea was prepared by his eldest son, Yū Yamanishi, who supported the long day from preparation to performance with quiet sincerity. The harmony between father and son was palpable, and the koicha gathering they created together was a radiant embodiment of ichigo ichie—a once-in-a-lifetime moment of beauty.
From the Kanbai Room, where the koicha gathering was held, one can gaze upon the Garden of Kyokusui. Each March, this garden becomes the setting for the “Kyokusui no En,” a courtly ritual that preserves the elegance of the Heian era. Amidst a profusion of plum blossoms, participants dressed in jūnihitoe and ikan sokutai compose poems on tanzaku slips as cups of sake float downstream. Before the cup passes before them, they must complete their verse and drink. This poetic rite is said to have originated in 958 (Tentoku 2), initiated by Ono no Yoshifuru, the Deputy Governor of Dazaifu. It evokes vivid images of Sugawara no Michizane—renowned for his literary gifts—and the refined gatherings of his time. The flowing water in the Garden of Kyokusui carries with it the memory of culture across centuries, lending a quiet resonance to the tea gathering.
The final flourish of the tea gathering was brought by Ms. Kunie Shirafuji, proprietress of Masa, a long-established ryōtei in Hakata. Our connection was kindly introduced by Mr. Masaharu Inoue of Hōkōen, and earlier this year I had the privilege of attending a tea gathering she hosted—an encounter with the world of hina furnishings that left a lasting impression. I vividly recall being captivated by her aesthetic: delicate yet imbued with quiet strength. For this occasion, Ms. Shirafuji infused the okimizuya with the spirit of the chabako (portable tea set), and while each of the three tea settings—kōsen, koicha, and usucha—carried its own distinct character, it was her usucha service that gracefully wove them together. Anchored in the sensibility of the Western Capital (saito), the gathering became a seamless tapestry where three unique expressions of beauty converged into a single, flowing narrative. It was, in every sense, a splendid collaboration—a richly layered moment where culture and season met in quiet harmony.
To all the guests who graciously took time from their lives to join us on this special day, and to the behind-the-scenes team who worked tirelessly from preparation to closing—your dedication made everything possible. Above all, we are deeply grateful to Dazaifu Tenmangū for generously providing a venue beyond compare. Thanks to their kindness, and in collaboration with Mr. Masaharu Inoue of Hōkōen, we were able to bring the “Early Summer Gathering,” a year in the making, to a beautiful conclusion. It is our sincere hope that this occasion might gently expand the circle of those drawn to the worlds of art and tea, and that a quiet resonance will remain in the hearts of all who attended. Thank you, truly, from the bottom of our hearts.
